International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard
Global Organic
Textile Standard
Version 2.0
Copyright: © 2008 by 'International Working Group (IWG)
on Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)'
06.06.2008
Contact:
www.global-standard.org
T a b l e o f c o n t e n t s
2.1. Requirements for organic fibre production
2.2. Requirements for material composition
2.2.1. Products sold, labelled or represented as "organic" or "organic in conversion"
2.3. General Requirements for Chemicals
2.3.1. Prohibited substances and restricted inputs in all production stages
2.3.2. Risk phrases and toxicity requirements in all processing stages
2.4. Additional specific requirements for processing and related chemicals
2.4.1. Separation and Identification
2.4.3. Sizing and weaving / knitting
2.4.5. Pre-treatment stages, wet processing
2.4.9. Requirements for accessories
2.4.10. Environmental management
2.4.12. Storage, packaging and transport
2.4.13. Record keeping & internal quality assurance
2.4.14. Technical quality parameters
2.4.15. Orientation values for residues in organic textiles
2.4.16. Orientation values for residues in additional materials and accessories
3.2. Employment is freely chosen
3.3. Freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining are respected
3.4. Working conditions are safe and hygienic
3.5. Child labour must not be used
3.7. Working hours are not excessive
3.8. No discrimination is practised
3.9. Regular employment is provided
3.10. Harsh or inhumane treatment is prohibited
4.1. Auditing of processing and manufacturing stages
1. Principles
1.1. Aim of the standards
The aim of these standards is to define requirements to ensure organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labelling in order to provide a credible assurance to the end consumer.
1.2. Scope and structure
These standards for organic textiles cover the production, processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, exportation, importation and distribution of all natural fibres. The final products may include, but are not limited to fibre products, yarns, fabrics and clothes.
The standards focus on compulsory criteria only.
1.3. Version
Version 2.0 of the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), dated 06.06.2008
1.4. Label grading
These standards provide for a subdivision into two label-grades. The only differentiation for subdivision is the minimum percentage of 'organic' / 'organic ‑ in conversion' material in the final product. Labelling of products as 'in conversion' is only possible, if the regulation, on which the certification of the fibre production is based, permits such labelling for the fibre in question and if it can be demonstrated that equivalent organic fibres are not commercially available in sufficient quantity, quality or type.
Final products, that are produced and manufactured in compliance with these standards by an operation that has been certified by an approved certifying body may be sold, labelled or represented as:
a) "organic" or "organic ‑ in conversion"
or
b) "made with x % organic materials" or " made with x % organic ‑ in conversion materials"
with regard to these standards.
An approved certifying body must include in its respective licensing/certification agreements that the products produced according to the Global Standard must be labelled "Global Organic Textile Standard".
After the International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard has introduced a logo the correct and binding usage of the same will be defined in a separate document ('labelling guide').
2. Criteria
2.1. Requirements for organic fibre production
Approved are natural fibres that are certified organic and fibres from conversion period certified according to recognised international or national standards and certified by any IFOAM accredited or internationally recognised (according to ISO 65) certifier. Certifying of products as 'in conversion' is only possible, if the regulation on which the certification of the fibre production is based permits such a certification for the fibre in question and if it can be demonstrated that equivalent organic fibres are not commercially available in sufficient quantity, quality or type. Conversion nature of fibres must be stated as specified in chapter 1.4. of these standards.
2.2. Requirements for material composition
2.2.1. Products sold, labelled or represented as "organic" or "organic in conversion"
95% or more of the fibre content of the products - excluding non-textile accessories - must be of certified organic origin or from 'in conversion' period (identified and labelled as specified in chapters 1.4 and 2.1 of these standards). Up to 5% of the fibre content may be made of non-organic fibres including regenerated and synthetic fibres as defined in the annex. The remaining balance may not contain any conventional fibres of the same raw material contained in the organic portion of the same product (i.e., no blending).
2.2.2. Products sold, labelled or represented as "made with x % organic materials" or "made with x % organic
in conversion materials"
No less than 70% of the fibre content of the product - excluding accessories - must be of certified organic origin or from 'in conversion' period (identified and labelled as specified in the chapters 1.4 and 2.1 of these standards). Up to 30% of the fibre content of the product may be made of non-organic fibres, which must not be produced from GMO fibres. The remaining balance may contain a maximum of 10% of regenerated or synthetic fibres as defined in the annex, except that socks, leggings and sportswear may contain a maximum of 25% of regenerated or synthetic fibres as defined in the annex. The remaining balance may not contain conventional fibres of the same raw material contained in the organic portion of the same product (i.e., no blending).
2.3. General Requirements for Chemicals
2.3.1. Prohibited substances and restricted inputs in all production stages
| Substance group | Criteria |
| Permanent AOX in primary effluent | Restricted: AOX may not constitute more than 1% per weight of any input |
| Aromatic solvents | Prohibited |
| (Chloro-) Phenols (as TCP, PCP) | Prohibited |
| Complexing agents and active detergents | Prohibited are: - APEO; - EDTA, DTPA and similar persistent complexing agents; - LAS, a-MES |
| Formaldehyde and other short-chain aldehydes | Prohibited |
| Genetically modified organisms (GMO's) and their derivates (including enzymes derived from genetically modified micro-organisms) | Prohibited |
| Fungicides and Biocides | Prohibited |
| Halogenated solvents | Prohibited |
| Heavy metals | Prohibited, inputs must be heavy metal free as defined by ETAD Prohibited are metal complex dyes - General exception for Iron - Specific exception for copper: up to 5% in blue, green and turquoise dyestuffs The exception for the use of copper will be reviewed in two years from date of |
| Fluorocarbons | Prohibited |
| Quaternary ammonium compounds | Prohibited, except for auxiliaries used for fixing purposes in the dyeing process, provided they meet all other GOTS criteria. This exception will be reviewed in two years from date of adoption. |
| Other explicit prohibited substances | Any substances, that are prohibited with a recognised internationally or a nationally valid legal character. |
2.3.2.Risk phrases and toxicity requirements in all processing stages
All substances or preparations will be assessed on the basis of the MSDS.
| Substance group | Criteria |
| Other toxic substances
| No use is allowed for chemical substances and preparations that are assigned or may be assigned at the time of application any of the following risk phrases or combinations thereof:
R26: Very toxic by inhalation. R27: Very toxic in contact with skin. R28: Very toxic if swallowed. R39: Danger of very serious irreversible effects. R40: Limited evidence of a carcinogenic effect. R45: May cause cancer. R46: May cause heritable genetic damage. R48: Danger of serious damage to health by prolonged exposure. R49: May cause cancer by inhalation. R60: May impair fertility. R61: May cause harm to the unborn child. R62: Possible risk of impaired fertility. R63: Possible risk of harm to the unborn child. R68: Possible risk of irreversible effects. No use is allowed for chemical substances and preparations that are assigned or may be assigned at the time of application any of the following risk phrases or combinations thereof, in accordance with the criteria of classification given in EC Directive CE 67/548, 18th Adaptation: R50: Very toxic to aquatic organisms. R51: Toxic to aquatic organisms. R52: Harmful to aquatic organisms. R53: May cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment. R58: May cause long-term adverse effects in the environment. R59: Dangerous for the ozone layer.
The introduction of R51, R52 and R53 may have the consequence of a remarkable reduction in dyeing chemicals and auxiliaries. Considering the expected loss in dyeing quality and diversity the mentioned R-sentences will be optional until next revision of this standard. In certification process these parameters have to be controlled, documented and reported. |
| Parameter | Criteria |
| Oral Toxicity 3) | LD50 > 2000 mg/kg 3)
|
| Aquatic Toxicity 1) | LC50, EC50, IC50 > 1 mg/l |
| Relation of biodegradability / eliminability 2) to aquatic toxicity 1) | Only allowed, if: < 70% and > 100 mg/l > 70% and 10100 mg/l > 95% and 110 mg/l |
| Bio-accumulative | Substances, known to be bio-accumulative and not biodegradable (70% 28d OECD 302A) are prohibited (=> TEGEWA classification III = high waste water impact). |
1) Testing methods / [testing duration]: LC50 fish, OECD 203, [96hr]; EC50 daphnia, OECD 202 [48hr]; algae IC50, OECD 201 [72hr ]
2) Testing methods: OECD 301 A-E, ISO 7827, OECD 302 A, ISO 9887, OECD 302 B, ISO 9888 or OECD 303A; testing duration in each case: 28 days
3) If the toxicity is only relating to the pH-value, alkaline and acids are accepted unless restricted in other parts of this standard.
2.4. Additional specific requirements for processing and related chemicals+
2.4.1. Separation and Identification
All stages through the processing chain must be established so as to ensure that organic and conventional fibres are not commingled and that organic fibres are not contaminated by contact with prohibited substances.
All organic raw materials must be clearly labelled and identified as such at all stages of the processing chain.
2.4.2. Spinning
Allowed additives include paraffin, paraffin oils and substances derived from natural raw materials only.
2.4.3. Sizing and weaving / knitting
Allowed sizing agents include starch, starch derivatives, other natural substances and CMC (carboxymethylcellulose).
Polyvinylalcohol (PVA) and Polyacrylate (PAC) may be used for no more than 25% of the total sizing in combination with natural substances only, calculated for the chemical without water.
Knitting / weaving oils must not contain heavy metals. Other inputs must be derived from natural raw materials only.
2.4.4. Non woven manufacture
Allowed non-woven manufacturing processing includes only mechanical compaction, webbing and entangling such as hydro entanglement.
2.4.5. Pre-treatment stages, wet processing
| Pre-treatment stage | Criteria |
| Ammonia treatment | Prohibited - Exception: allowed for pre-washing of wool, if performed in close circuit. |
| Bleaches | On basis of oxygen only (peroxides, ozone, etc.). Exceptions for non-cotton fibres have to be approved by the certifier. |
| Boiling, kiering, washing | Allowed are auxiliaries that meet the basic requirements as set in section 2.3.1. and 2.3.2. only |
| Chlorination of wools | Prohibited |
| Desizing | Allowed are GMO free enzymatic desizing and other auxiliaries that meet the basic requirements as set in section 2.3.1. and 2.3.2. only |
| Mechanical/thermal treatments | Allowed |
| Mercerization | Allowed with auxiliaries that meet the basic requirements as set in section 2.3.1. and 2.3.2. only. Alkaline must be recycled. |
| Optical brightening | Allowed are optical brighteners that meet all criteria for the selection of dyes and auxiliaries as defined in chapter 2.4.6, Dyeing. A review of this allowance will be done in two years from date of adoption. |
| Other, not explicit listed pre-treatment methods | Allowed are mechanical / thermal pre-treatment methods and such with the use of substances on basis of natural raw materials. |
2.4.6. Dyeing
| Parameter | Criteria |
| Selection of dyes and auxiliaries | Allowed are natural dyes and those auxiliaries and synthetic dyes that meet the requirements stated in chapter 2.3.1, 2.3.2, 2.4.15 and 2.4.16 of these standards. Prohibited are azo dyes that release carcinogenic amine compounds (MAK Group III 1,2,3) |
2.4.7. Printing
| Parameter | Criteria |
| Selection of dyes, pigments and auxiliaries | Allowed are natural dyes and those auxiliaries, synthetic dyes and pigments that meet the requirements stated in chapter 2.3.1, 2.3.2, 2.4.15 and 2.4.16 of these standards. Prohibited are discharge printing methods using aromatic solvents. Prohibited are plastisol printing methods using phthalates and PVC. Prohibited are azo dyes that release carcinogenic amine compounds (MAK Group III 1,2,3) |
2.4.8. Finishing
| Parameter | Criteria |
| Selection of finishing methods and auxiliaries | Allowed are mechanical, thermal and other physical finishing methods. Natural auxiliaries and GMO free enzymes are permitted. Synthetic auxiliaries are permitted only for softening, milling and felting, as long as they meet the requirements stated in chapter 2.3.1 and 2.3.2 of these standards. Flame proofing auxiliaries are exceptionally permitted if their use is legally required in the country and for the product in question. They must at least meet the requirements stated in chapter 2.3.1 |
2.4.9. Requirements for accessories
| Accessory | Criteria |
| Sewing threads | Allowed are natural and synthetic sewing threads. |
| Embroidery yarns | Allowed are natural and synthetic embroidery yarns. |
| Appliquι | Allowed on basis of natural materials only. |
| Elastic bands and yarns | Allowed are natural and synthetic materials. |
| Linings / pockets | Allowed are natural fibres only. |
| Inlays / Interface | Allowed are inlays of natural fibres and viscose only. |
| Seam bindings / hatbands | Allowed are seam bindings of natural and synthetic fibres. Allowed are hatbands of natural fibres only. |
| Shoulder pads | Allowed of natural fibres and viscose. Also mixtures with polyester are allowed. |
| Labels
| Allowed of natural fibres, polyester and viscose only. |
| Buttons / press-studs | Allowed are natural raw materials and metal. Metal buttons must be free of chrome and nickel. Plastic buttons are allowed if it can be demonstrated that buttons from natural sources are not available in sufficient quantity and with the required properties. A review of this allowance will be done in two years from date of adoption. |
| Zips | Allowed are tapes of natural materials, polyamide and polyester. Allowed are chains of metal (free of chrome and nickel), polyamide and other plastics (without PVC). |
| Buckles | Allowed are tapes of natural materials only. Allowed are chains of natural materials and metal (free of chrome and nickel). |
| Edgings | Allowed are natural materials and elasthane. |
| Cords / borders | Allowed are natural fibres only. |
| Supports and Frames | Allowed are natural raw materials and metal (free of chrome and nickel). |
| Other, not explicit listed accessories | Allowed are natural fibres only. |
| Material in general | All accessories must meet the residue limits as given in section 2.4.16 of these standards - No threatened timber - No PVC - No nickel or chrome |
2.4.10. Environmental management
Operators must have a written environmental policy. Depending on the processing stages performed, the policy should include:
- person responsible;
- procedures to minimise waste and discharges;
- procedures for monitoring waste and discharges;
- procedures to follow in case of waste and pollution incidents;
- documentation of staff training in the conservation of water and energy, the proper and minimal use of chemicals and their correct disposal;
- programme for improvement.
Wet processing units must keep full records of the use of chemicals, energy, water consumption and waste water treatment, including the disposal of sludges.
2.4.11. Waste water treatment
Wastewater from all wet processing sites must be treated in an internal or external functional wastewater treatment plant before discharged to surface waters. Wet processing units must measure and monitor sediment quantities, waste water temperature and waste water pH. Wastewater from wet-processing sites (except greasy wool scouring sites and flax retting sites) must, when discharged to surface waters after treatment (whether on-site or off site), have a COD content of less than 25 g/kg of textile output expressed as an annual average. If the effluent is treated on site and discharged directly to surface waters, it must also have an pH between 6 and 9 (unless the pH of the receiving water is outside this range) and a temperature of less than 40C° (unless the temperature of the receiving water is above this value). The COD/BOD ratio must be ≤ 5. The copper content must not exceed 0,5 mg/l.
Wastewater analyses must be performed and documented periodically at normal operating capacity.
2.4.12. Storage, packaging and transport
Organic textile products must be stored and transported in such a manner as to prevent contamination by prohibited substances and commingling with conventional products or substitution of the contents.
Packaging material must not contain PVC.
Transport means and routes must be documented.
In cases where pesticides/biocides must be used in storerooms / transport means, they have to comply with the applicable international or national organic production standard.
2.4.13. Record keeping & internal quality assurance
All operational procedures and practices must be supported by effective documented control systems and records to provide an audit trail to enable the inspectorate to trace:
- The origin, nature and quantities of organic products which have been delivered to the unit;
- The nature, quantities and consignees of products produced in accordance with these standards which have left the unit;
- Any other information such as origin, nature and quantities of raw materials, accessories and processing aids delivered to the unit and the composition of manufactured products that may be required for the purposes of proper inspection of the operation.
A valid organic certificate (e.g. transaction certificate) from an accredited certification body must be maintained for all purchased organic fibres and yarns.
The operator must check the integrity of the packaging or container and verify the origin and nature of any organic product from the information contained in the label/documentation upon receipt of the organic product.
A product whose organic status is in doubt may only be put into processing or packaging after elimination of that doubt.
2.4.14. Technical quality parameters
Any final product labelled according to these standards should comply with the following technical quality parameters. Information about any (potential) non-compliance(s) must be indicated by the licensee of the final product in the product declaration.
| Parameters | Test method | Criteria |
| Rubbing fastness, dry | DIN 54021 ISO 105x12 | 3-4 |
| Rubbing fastness, wet | DIN 54021 ISO 105x12 | 2 |
| Perspiration fastness, alkaline and acid | DIN 54020 ISO 105 E04 | 3-4 |
| Light fastness | DIN 54004 ISO 105 B02 | 3-4 |
| Shrinkage values when wet Knitted/hosiery: Woven: | DIN 53920 ISO 6330 |
max. 8% max. 3% |
| Saliva fastness | LMBG B 82.10-1 | "FAST" for baby and children's clothing |
| Washing fastness when washed at 60°C | DIN 54010 ISO 105 C03 | 3-4 |
2.4.15. Orientation values for residues in organic textiles
Any final product labelled according to these standards should comply with the following chemical quality parameters. Information on any (potential) non-compliance(s) must be indicated by the licensee of the final product in the product declaration.
| Parameter | Test method | Criteria |
| Chlorophenols (PCP, TeCP) < 0.05 mg/kg | VDI 4301-3, i.A. | < 0.01 mg/kg |
| o-Phenylphenole | Extraction, DFG/S19, GC/MS | < 1.0 mg/kg |
| Amines (amine-releasing azo dyes (MAK Group III 1,2,3) | EN 14362-1 | < 30 mg/kg |
| AOX | Extraction with boiling water, adsorption on charcoal, AOX-Analyzer, ISO 9562 i.A. 1) | < 0.5 mg/kg |
| Disperse dyes (classified as allergenic or carcinogenic) | DIN 54231 | < 30 mg/kg |
| Formaldehyde | Japanese Law 112, ISO 14184-1 i.A. | < 16 mg/kg |
| Glyoxal and other short-chain aldehydes | Extraction, HMBT, Photometry UV/VIS | < 20 mg/kg |
| pH for wools | ISO 1413 | 4.5 9.0 |
| pH for other textiles | ISO 1413 | 4.5 8.0 |
| Total pesticides | § 64 LFGB L 00.0034 |
|
| Cellulose fibres, silk |
| < 0.1 mg/kg |
| Shorn wool, conventional |
| < 1.0 mg/kg |
| Shorn wool, cert. org |
| < 0.5 mg/kg |
| Heavy metals | Elution DIN 54020 | In eluate: figures in mg/kg referred to the textile |
| Antimony (Sb) |
| < 0.2 mg/kg |
| Arsenic (As) |
| < 0.2 mg/kg |
| Lead (Pb) |
| < 1.0 mg/kg (outerwear) |
| Cadmium (Cd) |
| < 0.1 mg/kg |
| Chromium (Cr) |
| < 2.0 mg/kg (outerwear) < 1.0 mg/kg (others) |
| Chromium VI (Cr-VI) |
| < 0.5 mg/kg |
| Cobalt (Co) |
| < 4.0 mg/kg (outerwear) |
| Copper (Cu) |
| < 50 mg/kg (outerwear) |
| Nickel (Ni) |
| < 4.0 mg/kg (outerwear) |
| Mercury (Hg) |
| < 0.02 mg/kg |
| Selenium &n |